Off on tour again! (Croatia)

Here is a blog I posted on Ducatisti in 2009 about my 848 trip to Croatia

I have got next week off work, and a nine day pass, so I am off on tour again! I am all packed, and the 848 is all ready. She has had a new front tyre fitted, and I have just finished putting a Ventura system on her, so I should be able to ride her with a weeks kit without any luggage dramas.

I am taking the 848 to Stafford tomorrow, and then after work its down to Dover and across the channel tomorrow evening! I haven’t got an exact plan, but am staying in Calais tomorrow night, and then I have a hotel booked in Augsburg in Germany on Saturday. After that I plan to take it a bit easier on ordinary roads. How far I go will depend on my mood! I’ll keep you posted if I can get on the internet!

Can’t wait!!

I plan to be home on Saturday week


The longest day?


The 848 and I have arrived safely in Augsberg, which is about 70 clicks west of Munich. Although the journey was relatively uneventful, it is a hell of a long way! Since leaving Stafford I have travelled through five countries and done 860 miles!

I left the office about 1700 last night, and despite a long tail back at the Dartford crossing I got the 2215 crossing and arrived at the Calais F1 motel just after one, continental time. After a brief rest I filled her up and headed for Belgium, leaving the petrol station just after 9. The first couple of stints were a bit dreecht, with grey skies and a nip in the air. However by the time I approached Charleroi, the sun started to break through and we had stunning weather through the Ardennes, Luxembourg and the Mosel. As the temperatures rose off came the fleece, and eventually the windproof jacket as I left the fourth refuelling point in the lee of the main grandstand at the Hockenheim Ring. I was tempted to make a short pilgramage to the spot where Jim Clark was killed, but I still had a long way to go.

However him upstairs, wasnt watching Harrie, and was playing with me. Some 70 miles further on I saw a storm come round a hill, and before I could stop and put some protection on I was engulfed in a thunderstorm – hail, lightning and all! I managed to get my rainproof jacket on, but the leathers were wet, and pouring most of it straight into my boots! However there was a silver lining, because I took the chance to check my map and notice I had just missed my turning off the Autobahn! So I took a deviation and rode the last 100 clicks on a glorious National road to Augsberg, enduring two more storms enroute. I rescued myself from the last of these by diving under the canopy of a Jet station for my last fill up, put on my Goretex socks and generally sort myself out.


After that it was just a matter of enjoying the bends after 500 miles plus of motorway, keeping the damp at bay and waving at the German bikers who were out in force enjoying the road too. I noticed a Ducati dealer about 60 clicks from here, ideally placed for test rides over that route!


The hotel turned out to be very comfortable, and is all geared up to get my kit dry. I just hope that the price from the web turns out to be honoured! Tomorrow I will be taking it a bit easier. I couldn’t cope with another 600 mile plus day! Thinking of heading towards Austria and some more challenging roads.




The 848 sits outside the hotel

Have had another good days riding, but it does seem that every time that I get on a twisty to do some scratching, it pours it down! Happened again today, but I was ready for it this time and I stayed dry.


I sat down last night with my maps and the internet and planned the next stage. I decided I wanted to stay somewhere for a few days, so I could enjoy some local riding on new roads, and catch my breath a bit. I found a place that fitted the bill, and a local hotel which had some character and rooms at a good price!


I left Augsberg after a more leisurely breakfast and headed off towards Munich and Salzburg. As I bypassed Salzburg I remembered going to the Salzburgring some twenty years ago with my MG racer on the trailer accompanied by my mum! She had a photo of me at the prizegiving in her room right up until the end.


Bavaria was bathed in glorious sunshine as I rode through. As I approached the mountains it clouded over a bit, but stayed mainly sunny and dry.The Alps were quite breathtaking! I have driven in the French and Italian Alps before, but have not been this far east by road. It was quite chilly as we climbed, but I didnt have to resort to my fleece. The roads today were mainly dual carriageway, but the last 60 clicks the 848 and I were on some fantastic twisties, and I got the bike well and truely leaned over until the thunderstorm about 10 Ks from the end. Great way to end the day though!

A pause in the Austrian Alps

I then tackled the Alps through Austria, heading for Villach, and thence into Slovenia via Ljublijana and Postonja and on into Croatia, before ending up uin the faded grandeur of Hotel Opatija, in Opatija! So I have just come back from enjoing an ice cream cup on a terrace overlooking the Adriatic.


Hotel in Opatije


I will post a few more pics later when I have downloaded them. I have tried to avoid more pictures of services I have visited, but they are still a bit lmited! I will try to do better tomorrow when I have more time on my hands!


BTW when I get a moment I will tell you all about the self cleaning loo seat - another triumph of German engineering!!


Croatian Bliss! 

 Today I explored Croatia, and it turns out that it is a Bikers dream! They don’t believe in straight roads here, but specialise in 150 degree tightening radius bends instead! Hardly a straight more than 500 metres long, and very light traffic. And even when a slowcoach turns up, he tends to pull over after a few Kilometres to let you past! Bliss.


Man and machine in Croatia!


I managed 300 miles today on these glorious roads – well it would be rude not to. I set off down the coast road for about 50 miles before turning inland and taking a pseudo alpine road up into the mountains. This included so many “serpintinos” that I lost count. These are corkscrew hairpins which rise or plunge away from the apex. Whilst I haven’t ridden much on alpine passes, I have driven a few, and this was the equal of any of those, but with virtually no traffic.




Overlooking the Adriatic


After this climb it was across the plateau area to Karlovac. Again no straights, but the roads were flatter here. En route I stopped variously for some bananas (no surprise there), a look at a church and a second fill up.


A roadside fruit stall


As the filling station was well equipped I cleaned the chain and re greased it, checked the bike over and adjusted the tyre pressures. Thence to Karlovac , which is a decent sized town, for a coffee, before tackling the 100 mile ride to Opatija – more bends I’m afraid!


In central Croatia


So back to base after a great days riding. I enjoyed every minute! The glorious sound of the Termis bouncing off rock cuttings, walls, and the odd bridge and tunnel as the 848 pulled out of bend after bend. The steady handling as the bike soaked up all the bumps mid corner, and of course testing the sides of the tyres out as well as the middles!


Tomorrow I have something slightly different planned, but not so different that it wont involve the 848 and I!

I was supposed to be taking it easy yesterday, but couldnt resist the lure of those bendy roads, so instead of having an easy day, I went a bit mad. So I decided to can the planned ride to Bosnia today for a more relaxed rideout on some more of those glorious Croatian roads. So I rode for about 100 miles this morning, did a spot of maintenance at lunch time and some serious strolling about Opatija this afternoon. So now we are both all ready for the ride home which starts tomorrow.
A much needed wash!

I headed towards Pula on the coast road today, before heading inland and doing a huge circle back to base. I took the time to stop and take some pics of a typical Croatian bend, as well as some more conventional shots. As I approached Opatija again, I spotted a car wash, so stopped to give the 848 a bath. There was so much dust and grit everywhere I was afraid it could start to do some damage. I also WD40 d the chain and re-waxed it. So we are now both ready for the long trip home.


After the clean up I spotted a Monster parked outside a restaurant, so we stopped for a photo call. After days of seeing no Ducatis at all, I spotted a 999s race rep in Opatija high street this afternoon!


Tomorrow I set off on the long journey home. I plan a more relaxed trip using more ordinary roads, rather than relying on the motorways. I am travelling through Italy and Switzerland this time, before hitting France! No doubt if the weather turns bad, I ll be taking the nearest motorway back to Blighty!

If variety is the spice of life, then I am well spiced up this evening! I have experienced a huge range of riding today from the deserted Croatian twisties to crowded manic Italian Autostrada, and most things in between. However the variety has made the miles pass quickly after a very enjoyable day.

On the way in to Croatia on Sunday I noticed that there were huge queues waiting to get back into the EU at the Slovenian border. Needless to say I didn’t fancy any of that! Looking at my map I noticed a minor crossing which although on slower roads was a bit shorter way to Italy. I needed no second invitation to try one last session of Croatian twisties followed by some smooth flowing Slovenian roads back to Italy! It all worked well, apart from one missed junction which delayed my return to the EU! The border crossing was the original sleepy hollow, and I was over in five minutes. No passports needed, but the Croatian policewoman wanted to see the 848s V5! Not that she looked at the bike, it could have been a mini moke for all the interest she took, not even looking out of her cabin!
Time to leave Croatia

After that it was onto a Slovenian highway and then into Italy. I took to the National road. What a contrast from the Balkan mountains to the dead straight and flat Italian plain. However after we hit the urban sprawl about 200 clicks from Milan it all became very tedious, and progress slow, so I hit the Autostrada for Milan. Once on the Milan Ring I took the A9 for Como, which I left about 10 KMs before Lagarno in search of digs. I turned down an Ibis at 69 Euros plus breakfast, and found a delightful little Auberge, which is clean modern and roomy for 50 Euros all in! The only problem is that the wireless internet connection I “borrowed” earlier has now shut down, so I may not be able to post this tonight!

Recently we have become used to just sailing across borders and using Euros everywhere outside the UK, so it was a bit of a time warp to be crossing customs posts and changing currency. Croatia was delightful. Everyone was friendly and helpful, and most spoke usable English. However you really noticed the difference when back in Slovenia (EU), with everything so manicured (much more standardised, and so similar to the UK, etc.).

No great parade of Ducatis here in Italy. I have seen a couple of Monsters, and the 848 said hi to one of her big brothers, a1098 near Como.

I am afraid that I have been fairly occupied with finding my way on a complex route and inadequate maps (old and small scale), so have neglected the clicky snaps, so we are back in the “services I have known” mode. Anyway here are todays crop:
And here's todays offering!

Just when I thought I’d hit the perfect day, the next day is better! Well in reality I tend not to look back, so tomorrow is always a new experience to be savoured!View from my bedroom window!

The weather today has been perfect throughout. Not a cloud in the sky, and just warm enough to be fun, without overdoing it! Perfect weather to see Switzerland by. After much faffing about in Northern Italy trying to make progress on to the border, I finally made it into Switzerland, and almost immediately found myself on a motorway without a Vignette. So off at the
first junction where I found a filling station who sold me one – not cheap but better than spending the day discussing the matter with the Swiss Authorities!


There now followed a stunning ride along the Alpine Plain before leaving the motorway to try the St Gothenberg Pass. I made it so far before being turned back as the snow hadn’t melted. But not before having tried several Swiss Serpentinas and thirty kilometres of fantastic road. However once back on the motorway I soon discovered the views are fantastic from there too. So I swiftly made my way through Switzerland and back into France. The scenery in Switzerland was tremendous, helped by the sunshine and clear skies.Snow stopped play on the St Gothard!

Once in France I realised I was ahead of schedule, and that the rest of the day was a bonus. So I hit the back roads, and found another bit of great road, purely by chance! As I tried a few French Serpintinas I noticed a continual stream of bikes coming in the other direction, and a “Biker Hotel”. I had stumbled on a classic French biker’s route. After completing that it was back onto the Route National, until I eventually reached St Dizier, where I put up in another F1, and took a value meal in the Cora Supermarket.

Well I hope I do better with the internet tonight! I have found a McDonalds which boasts free internet access. So I’m off there for a coffee!

Thanks to Noteworthy for the heads up on the Swiss weather, I’m glad I made it right through today, as I didn’t fancy all those thunderstorms due tomorrow!

Sorry last nights offerings were a bit rushed, I hope they looked OK when loaded. The problem was that in France McDonalds close at ten! I was happily doing my thing on their internet connection when the lights started to go out! I typed the last few words of a PM to Harrie in the dark, sitting outside hoping they would leave the connection on until they had cleaned up.
Today started leisurely enough as I made my way gently across France using the National Roads by way of Reims, Laon, St Quentin, Arras, and Bapaume. Then it dawned on me that progress was so good that I would be in Calais by mid afternoon, making an overnight stay in France a bit unnecessary.

The weather looked threatening all day, and got progressively colder as I journeyed. On went all the layers I hadn’t seen since Belgium on the way out! However the roads were very good for A and B roads, with lots of long straights and little traffic. This was no doubt due to today (VE Day) being a public holiday in France, as everywhere was quiet, although there were a lot of bikers out on the roads. They were very quick to wave, and to stop and check you are OK, if they saw you stopped at the roadside. This happened several times when in France.
By the time I got within about 90 clicks of Calais the roads were heading for the Pas de Calais urban sprawl, so I took to the peage for the run to the port. I was able to get on the 1600 crossing, so here I am, making my last continental blog of the trip, waiting for us to dock! All being well I should get home tonight about nine.Typical French RN scene!

Only a couple of pics today, of the 848 in rural northern France, heading home. I saw several Ducatis whilst in France, more than in Italy. There was a lovely carbie SS with two up near Switzerland, several Monsters and a 1098/848 at full chat whilst I was parked up just outside Mulhouse. I also thought I spotted a yellow 916 shaped bike today in the Somme. The only 999 I saw all trip was race rep in Croatia.Well got home safely last night. Took the 848 up to Nellys today for a much needed service, so I am separated from my faithful friend for a bit!

She ran faultlessly throughout. I only had to clean the chain and put in petrol. She seemed to do about 100 miles before the light came on. Gave her a quick bath before taking her up to Cornerspeed, but she probably needs a more thorough clean before too long!

Plan to post a few reflections on the trip, and a map when I find the energy!

PS thanks to Nel50n for the pillion back from Nellys!