Big Trip to Nowhere! (October 2007)

Origionally posted on Ducatisti in October 2007

I have just finished preparing the 748 with a recent service, new Michelin Pilot Road Sports, clutch, brake pads, etc. I have fitted a Scottoiler and the Ventura luggage system, courtesy of Ebay and my welding gear, has been fitted. Finally I have taken the bike for a couple of shake down trips, and topped up with fuel!

I have sorted out all my gear, checked over the bike spares, oils etc. Armed with all your advice I will be riding in my Cordura and carrying Goretex waterproofs!. Tomorrow when I get back from work I will finish the packing, and load up ready for the off on Friday morning.

I have two and a half weeks off work, and I am heading for the continent and the sun! I plan to rack up quite a mileage. However I will not be in Gav998 and Co's league, as I plan to avoid motorways and stick to A type roads. I cross the channel on Friday and head south east. Although I have some plans, I will keep them under my hat for just now! However Mrs Douglas is due to fly out with her leathers and helmet at some point during the trip.

If I can get access to the web, I'll keep you posted on progress. In the meantime keep your fingers crossed for me and my 748!

First Day

Well Day One went off without too many problems! I left home about 0800 and rode steadily down the A5 to Dunstable, getting the feel of the 748 with its Ventura Luggage on board. I have a large and small pack zipped together, and all up it is quite heavy. The system works well, although I am conscious that the weight is quite high up.

I joined the M1 at Dunstable and left almost immediately to join the M10. My first stop was on the A12 at Brentwood, and eventually I got the 1250 tunnel shuttle. What a rip off that was, £80 single. I declined a return for £140 ish, and will have to think of another ruse to get home!

748 safely on the Eurotunnel shuttle

Apart from a sticky hour or so around St Omer I had a pleasant D road ride to Cambrai, where I set up in an F1. The weather has been mild but grey all day, with the roads greasy, especially in France. I have covered about 330 miles, having filled up again in Arras.


Obviously some things don’t change wherever you are. I was overtaken en route to Arras by a French sportsbike, who gave me a cheery wave of the leg as he went (That seems to be the French equivalent of the nod in the UK). His exhaust was a bit loud, and he had a miniscule number plate. As I came to the next roundabout there he was, being waved over by Le Fuzz!! Hey Ho! I didn’t notice his visor!!





I was just giving the 748s tyres a quick kick outside the hotel before it got dark, when two brits turned up on a pair of those BMW adventure traillie things, with the full Ewan McGregor kit, steel panniers, jerry cans etc. I haven’t yet had a chance to chat to them, so I don’t know what they are up to. They seem a bit better equipped than I for touring, but there you go.


France is Great


The second day was great! I rode some 320 miles on fantastic roads, and this afternoon the sun was so hot, I had to take the first layer off! This was what I hoped for, a long ride out on quiet, fantastic roads. Todays route took me from Cambrai, through Rheims to Dijon via Troyes. The Troyes - Dijon Road in particular was great fun. It is obviously a popular rideout in France because I saw lots of bikers out for a ride in the sunshine.Each time I go to France I am surprised by the sheer size of the place. The vast tracts of countryside with few people around makes it quite different to anything back home. Although there are desolate areas in the UK (Highlands of Scotland, N Wales, Peak District etc), they are so because the countryside is so rugged. Here the country is gentle, but still deserted! Makes for great riding.The only blot on the horizon is that I can’t find any Wi Fi access! So I’m not sure when I will be able to post this. Also I couldn’t post my pictures last night, I haven’t posted pictures on the new board, and I couldn’t work out how to do it without a url from which to load them.Tomorrow I plan to head for Italy over the Alps. Cant wait!


Alpine ride


Well I’m afraid I couldn’t log on from Dijon last night, so I will bring you up to date on Day Three as well. I set off early today, as it looked like a long day with a fair bit of alpine work. However it got off to a poor start, when I pushed the starter, nothing happened! After a worrying few minutes I operated the run/stop switch whilst holding the starter, and it burst into life. I couldn’t blame it really it was a grotty morning with drizzle/mist in the air, and the bike was soaking.]However once under way things weren’t much better, with poor visibility and fogged visor I decided to make the first stint on the peage, where at least I felt a bit safer.


After an hour or so the sun came out and I reached the alpine foothills, and the fun began. I had a great day warming the sidewalls of the tyres, waving to bikers and enjoying the fantastic views. I gave Switzerland a miss and took the Mount Blanc tunnel, a fantastic experience, with stunning views and bends a plenty!


I certainly wasn’t prepared for how hot it would be in the tunnel, but it cooled down as the tunnel descended before it got too uncomfortable. So I am now sitting in an Alpine Hotel in Italy, enjoying the view and the evening sunshine. Tomorrow I am off to Bologna – no prizes for guessing where I plan to visit on Tuesday!




Italian Alpine hotel


...and nearby castle!
　
Factory Visit and ride to the Adriatic

748 comes home!

Just before the due time we were met and taken to the canteen, which had a magnificent fresco of Desmodicci bikes all down one wall, and everything else themed in Ducati colours etc. I wont describe the visit because it was pretty much as everyone else has described. However I was particularily impressed with the Kamban system, which seemed to be taken much more seriously than in the UK factories I ve worked in.

Ducatis family silver

The latest news from the factory is that they are making 848 press demonstrators at present. I heard one running and it definitely had a WET clutch! We also saw some Tricolore Monsters, which apparently will be available soon. Also the first production Desmodici RR replica was made yesterday, with the second one due tonight! The production line is up and running, building one bike at a time! It takes 6 hours to assemble one apparently. We also saw some black 1098s, and white 848s.Apparently they plan to make black Hypomotards next year. Our lovely guide told us she is waiting to buy one!

After that it was off to the museum, again as described before.I took lots of pictures but thety will mainly be repeats of those already posted. However someone took one of me infront of the trophy cabinet, and I took several in the carpark, and one of the "Age of Casey Stoner" billboard, which I will try to post later.

I then hit the road for Presaro, which is about 30 clicks beyond Rimini on the Adriatic. All that went off without too much problem, and I arrived at the hotel about 1630. I then topped the bike up with oil, and settled in.

Another great day! The trip to the factory was well worth the effort! I got there in plenty of time, and so used it to clean and grease the chain, check its tension and remove the fly cemetry that had set itself up on the front of the bike.

Presaro is about 90% shut, a bit like Bournemouth in the close season. However it is (Ducatisti) tee shirt weather, and I am staying in a Hotel which would be well beyond our normal holiday budget for 40 euros! It even has decent internet access!

On the way down to Presaro I had time to reflect on the ride from the Alps to Bologna. Two memories stick in the mind. firstly in a north Italian town I saw an old boy going about his daily business on his Ducati. using it like a scooter. I am no expert on early Ducatis, but it was a small single cylinder job with druim brakes and spoked wheels, I would guess from the early seventies.It was in good, but well used condition, and he used it with such ease and familiarity he had obviously had it for a long time - since it was new you would suspect!

The bike failed to start until the run switch was toggled again when I left the alpine hotel, so I decided some WD40 treatment was needed. When I stopped for petrol I bought what I thought was maintenance spray. However when I tried using it some white foam appeared all over the switch.Well at least it is now nice and clean, as it turned out to be cleaning foam!! So much for my italian. I got the real thing later, and the bikle started as normal this morning.

Well tomorrow I am heading off down the Adriatic coast a bit further.

Adriatic sights

Today I rode from Presaro to Lucera, which is about 30 Kms from Foggia, inland from the coast. It is set on the first hillside after you cross the coastal plain. I approached it from the Adriatic Highway, and the road is dead straight for 19kms, and then you get a eries of alpine style hairpins to take you up into the town!

The weather gods have stayed with me, and I have had another glorious day. The urban strip through the northern part of my route was a bit tedious, so I took to the Autostrada a couple of times to miss out some larger towns and their hinterland.

So far another enjoyable, albeit uneventful, day in which the 748 and I covered some 250 miles. One final reflection from northern Italy. The Italians are ace filterers, especially on their scooters! However the guy on the approaches to Milan who filtered with the best of them - in his Fiat Panda - has got to take the biscuit!

I had a good walk round the medieval town centre here in Lucera earlier, and had a coke in a cafe, where the girl behind the bar was most impressed with my Ducatisti Tee shirt. Pity my italian wasnt up to inviting her back to see the bike!

Today I left Lucera and crossed the mountains to Potenza, and then headed west along the Appia Way across more mountains before turning seriously south to Cosenza nd onto the Mediterranean Coast, where I am staying tonight. I even had time for a couple of hours on the beach reading Bike Magazine! The Hotel is pictured below. There is no doubt that travelling at this time of year offers great value. Pity Mrs Douglas is a teacher, so normally we have to pay premium rates. However I must admit that I am looking forward to Mrs Ds' arrival on Saturday.

The main feature of today was the return of the wide open spaces and quiet roads, which I have missed since leaving France. Northern Italy is much more like the UK in population density, and I had to resort to the Autostrada to get away from stop start riding. However yesterday afternoon, and all day today I have had a relaxing ride, and made good progress without too much effort.




Tomorrow I plan to make the relatively short trip to Reggio Di calabria, and take the ferry across the Messina Straights to Sciliy, ready for Mrs D's arrival at Palermo. Keep your fingers crossed for me!


I have included a map of Italy, which might help you know where I am. Tonight I am in the Amalfi Coast area.
　
Latest update

Well I suppose it had to happen before too long, as I have been riding my luck for over a week now, and when it finally happened it did it in style, rain that is! It had rained heavily overnight, and the hotel told me it was set to return all day. So as I set off it was spitting, and the roads were full of standing water. However after about 10 mins the heavens opened, and it raaaaiiiiined!

I stopped to put on my waterproofs, and carried on. However the standing water, heavish traffic and stop start riding soon had me heading for the Autostrada. After about 50 clicks it eased up, and after a couple more bursts I arrived in Reggio in blazing sunshine. The only adverse effect from the rain was that when I took my gloves off my hands were black! I realised that was the first soaking my Ducati summer gloves had had, and the dye had run. My hands look as if I've had to change a head gasket enroute!

It took about an hour and a half to get on the ferry and get across to Messina, and after that it was staright into the Scicilian city traffic at lunch time. Now these boys can filter........

Scicily or bust!

Crossing the Messina Straights

I noticed a 996 waiting to get on the ferry as I got off, so waves were exchanged. Its the first Superbike I've seen on the road since leaving Blighty. I think it was Italian registered.

After 30 mins in the Messina cauldron, I got on my way, arriving at the hotel in Terrgotta about three. The days are getting easier, as I had deliberately left some slack in case of problems.

My early arrival allowed me to clean and grease the chain after its ducking, and generally kick the tyres on the bike in readiness for tomorrow. I fitted a Scottoiler before I left, but am unconvinced about its delivery rate. The chain is moist, but it hardly seems to use any oil, despite my turning up the wick. Anyone used one on a 748/916 etc got any tips?

I have used the Autostradas more in the last few days. They are quite different down south, as they often go down to one contra flow carriageway, and need to be ridden, as they have curves more like a good British A road. Also as they have quite light traffic you can relax a bit and enjoy the scenery, and some of it is absolutely stunning.

Sicily and beyond! Just after I had posted my last update, I heard the roar of a bevvy of "twins" go past the hotel. It turned out to be six Bavarians on adventure bikes! Five were BMWs, and the other a KTM, all kitted out with the "full Ewans". Chatting to them I found out they were such intrepid adventures that they had taken the "car train" from Munich to Naples, and ridden down from there. They were planning to ride around Mount Etna before returning to the mainland.

I left Terragrotta bright and early for my RV with Kristel (Mrs D) in Palermo. However she had to endure technical delays and little overnight sleep. and I had to ride through torrential downpours to reach Palermo. So I arrived at the docks first, very soggy but relieved, and found us a very smart cafe outside the main entrance, where I parked the 748 right outside my table window. Kristel duly arrived and we made the cafe our base until time came to board the boat for Tunis.


Palermo rendez vous in the rain

After an orgy of offialdom and paperwork we embarked on the Eurostar Salerno and secured the 748 on the freight deck before finding our cabin. The crossing was very smooth, we had a good dinner on the boat followed by a good nights sleep. This morning we disembarked in Tunis, and discovered that the paperchase in Palermo was just a dress rehearsal for the main event to enter Tunisia. However eventually we made our escape, with a "Permis de Circulation" for the 748 and a bundle if fiches for ourselves! So now Tunisia is our oyster, and we are ready for "A Ducati in Africa" - a short production, currently interupted by rainstorms!

Tunis Boulevard

We are going to be based in Tunis, and it was so nice to unpack everything, sort it out in the knowledge that I will not be packing it all away again in a few hours!

Currently our photos are "at the chemists", but I hope to post some before too long.

Ducati in Africa!

Disembarked in Tunis

Yesterday we went to Sousse, which ia a holiday area, and quite different to Tunis. It is a bit more like Bl*****ol, but with a rip off merchant on every corner. Whilst I can hardly blame them for wanting a slice of European affluence, it is a bit wearing. Suffice to say we prefer Tunis and the North.

The last two days the weather has looked up, and we nave got a bit of biking in! The target was to visit Carthage, because Mrs D studied classics, and I have a loose interest in history. So we went up there today, and had a good look round the ruined city, before heading for a rideout to the north of Tunisia. We had a great day, experiencing the unique atmosphere of Africa, and enjoyng great riding roads. Tunis may not have the style of Italy, but its road surfaces are in a different class, smooth and relatively pot hole free. That and little traffic ouside the cities make for a great ride out.

One nice surprise came when we filled up. About a fiver for a complete fill up - a little over 30p a litre!! The sad part is that it will soon be time to pack up an leave Tunis. We are due to catch the Marseilles boat ion the morning. It is about a 24 hour voyage. Kristel will fly home from there, and I will resume my European tour alone again with the 748.

Leaving Africa

Just sometimes both belt and braces break. And so it was when we left Tunis. The hotel forgot to give us a wakeup call, and I wrongly set the alarm clock on my phone. The result was an unseemly rush, with me racing Mrs Ds taxi to the port! However we needn’t have worried, because we hung around for about three hours, and they were still loading cars 90 minutes after we were due to sail! One thing was for sure, we got full value for money from our passports, as they were inspected so many times during the admin at the port.

Bye Bye Tunis as dawn breaks.


At the port we met a group from the Harley Owners Club of Bordeaux, who had been on a tour of Tunisia, and their bikes feature in the pics. We also let another Frenchman, who was touring with his wife on a BMW adventure bike, try the 748s pillion for size. He was trying to persuade his wife that the pillion would be comfortable – he really wanted a Duke, as he said “Oh the noise!” Sadly he introduced his wife to Mrs D, who was forthright in her description of the pillion!

One final story from Tunisia. As we toured the hinterland on the 748, I felt we would be in hot water with the Ayatollahs as at one stage we passed a mosque calling the faithful to prayer, only for it to be drowned out by the growl of a semi silenced 748!

The crossing was uneventful, and we disembarked in Marseilles about an hour late. The customs queue etc looked like going on all day. However I managed to filter my way to the front of the passport line, where I got a grandstand view of cars being emptied and dismantled by the customs. I was just thinking that I would be there all day when a douanier called me out of the queue, and waved me straight through without stopping! After hurried goodbyes Mrs D went by taxi to the airport, and I was back on the road. (I have since heard she has arrived home safely).

 Filling up in France

I took the Autoroute to Avignon, and then took the D road up the East bank of the Rhone through the Ardeche. The weather was gorgeous, and the riding and scenery fantastic. I then cut across to St Etienne, over the Col de la Republique. It was a tremendous ride, like about 20 Fish Hills on steroids! I am now installed in the F1 in Clermond Ferrand, trying to decide where to go to tomorrow!

The only other event of note today was getting pulled for a spot check by the gendarmes. They were doing random checks with vehicle inspectors etc at the Autoroute toll. Once they were satisfied with my papers he wanted to know all about the Scottoiler, as he too was a biker, and called over his mates to marvel at it! However I did notice that he actually checked the frame number, and the E mark on the cans.

The end's in sight

Every holiday has a bad day, and today was this trips Bad Day! When I set off early, it was still dark and some mist in the air. As the infamous 748 headlights made little impression on the darkness, I decided to take to the Autoroute. My plan was to exit Clermont Ferrand and then take the RN to Nevers, via Magny Cours, where I wanted to call in at the Mygale factory, as they made my new racing car. However the weather had other ideas. It wasn’t long before the cold started to bite, and so I put on my waterproof jacket to keep the cold out. Later I stopped to put on various extra layers until I had got almost all the layers I had on!

The fog got worse about 50 miles outside C-F. When I turned off the Autoroute the fog was so bad I could barely see beyond the end of my nose. I stopped for a coffee, and waited for it to clear. After 30 mins it was no better, so I set off back onto the Autoroute, and decided to give Nevers etc a miss. However despite soaping the inside of my visor, and Rain Xing the outside it got no better. In all the confusion I headed for Tours rather than Orleans, so I took a longer route to Rouen via Le Mans.

In the afternoon all my layers got pretty much on top of the conditions, and I got to Rouen by about 5.30, and decided to stop, having done about 450 miles, about two thirds on the motorway. After a long hot shower, and a cup of tea and a tarte aux fruits at a nearby patisserie I was just about restored! However on reflection I realised that the off motorway riding wasn’t all that interesting. Easily the least fun day of the tour.

I noticed that the weather is not getting any better, and that I am unaware of any challenging rides around here, so I think I will come home tomorrow. I have been away for 15 days so far, and enjoyed riding the 748 each day. So tomorrow I will be heading for the Tunnel or the ferry at Dover.
　
Safely Home

Well the last day went off pretty much as planned. I left Rouen at about 7.30, all wrapped up in my cold beating layers, and was as warm as toast all the way to Calais, after a brief stop at the Leclerc store in Boulogne to refuel. I arrived at the Tunnel at just before 1030, and gat on the 1050 train. I had booked the 1152 on line the night before for £39, much more the sort of price I wanted than the outward trip. I noticed that the price went up to £69 at 1200!

When I disembarked at Blighty it looked most unpromising, dull with intermittent drizzle. However Kent soon treated me to a sunny ride to the Dartford Tunnel. Then things went awry. The M25 was closed between the M20 and the A20, and it was chaos! I filtered to the front of the queue off the M20, and round the roundabout to the M25 exit, which was blocked by WPC in a patrol car. My charm must be failing cos I couldnt pursuade her to let me on and filter through, but she gave me good advice on an alternative route, which worked well, but took me about 25 miles and aboiut an hour to get to the tunnel. I stopped at London Colney to refuel and a snack (brioche and orange juice), before riding up the M1 home.

The final stage of the journey was a blast along the A5 and A444, both favourite rideout roads. There were lots of bikes out enjoying the late autumn. Although I was by now intent on getting home, I felt that familiar twinge of envy at not being able to join them! I guess that I still havent had enough of riding the 748!

I will post a couple of post scripts. Some of you wanted some stats, so I will get those together, and I will also write a few reflections on the practicalities of the "Big Trip" as it is known here.

Well thats it:

Journey's End! It has been a fantastic experience. I have seen so many places, met so many really nice, helpful people and learnt so much about France, Italy and Tunisia. I have ridden some fantastic roads: motorways of varying qulaities, fast A roads, twisting roads, alpine passes and african roads. Above all I have enjoyed my 748. I looked forward to getting on her each morning, and she responded by running faultlessley.

Thank you all for encouraging me to keep my log by reading it and leaving so many messages. I looked forward to logging on each evening to read them. Thanks must also go to Mrs D for not objecting too much to the plan, and for joining me on the african segment. It was good to be able to share the experience with her.

BTW It looks as if I may have to rely on the bikes a bit longer. My car was bust before I left, Mrs Ds car broke whilst I was away, and my van (which Kristel used to get to the airport) now won't unlock its drivers door! Lucky Ducatis are so reliable!!

The aftermath

Well the unpacking is complete, the 748 washed and checked over, and I am back at work, so as promised a few reflections on the practicalities of my trip.

The bike was a standard 748 biposto. It was last serviced at 9800 miles and had 10900 on it when I left on the trip. Not long before leaving I fitted the Ventura luggage system, new tyres, brake pads, chain and sprocket and a clutch pack, and checked all the fluid levels etc. I left enough time to ride the bike to work a couple of times to ensure all was well. During the trip I had a minor problem with the starter switch, which cleared up with a scoosh of WD40. I cleaned and lubricated the chain every few days, and retensioned it after about 3000 miles. I added 1/4 litre of oil during the trip, and topped it right up with 1/2 a litre at the end. I didnt wash the bike enroute, so it needed a good clean on its return.

The Ventura luggage system was great. I used a big bag and a small bag zipped together. I carried clothes etc in the big bag, with bike spares etc in the front pocket. The small bag was used to carry waterproofs ,and to carry extra warm clothing. When I left home it was fairly empty, but filled up the further south I went. The rear pocket was used to carry drinks, camera, disc lock and other bits and pieces I wanted en route. Although the two bags were quite heavy when filled and zipped together, they were managable. They were a little fiddly to get strapped and unstrapped from the frame, but nothing like putting on panniers etc every morning. Using the Ventura system enabled me to do without a bag tank or a rucksack, and the system was unintrusive when riding. Although the luggage is supposed to be waterproof, I wrapped all my clothes etc in zip topped plastic bags, just to be sure!

The bike was just fantastic to ride! Obviously I knew how it felt in normal riding before I left. However the engine is just so smooth and flexible, pulling cleanly away from low revs, and the fuelling just perfect in all conditions. Ideal for touring. It was comfortable, and despite spending up to 10 hours on it each day, I never felt stiff, and always looked forwrad to getting on again next day. My main concerns were with the lights. The headlights are pretty feeble, and I was aware that the rear lights are not too bright, and were partly obscured by the Ventura luggage.

I wore fairly cheap textile jacket and trousers, which were goretex like. They had a zipped in thermal liner, and lots of pockets. They worked extremely well, and were large enough to wear lots of layers underneath, but adjustable enough to let me wear less layers in comfort. I carried MOD surplus Goretex waterproofs, which I wore over everything. Although not pretty, they were very high quality and cheap. They were totally waterproof. I carried winter and summer gloves, and thermal glove liners. I never bother with a snood or a balaclava. All in all I was very happy with my kit.

I bought a Shoei Raid 2 helmet in the summer, which I took on the trip. It was very light and comfortable, but I didnt like the visor system, the way it steamed up or the noise. I felt it was very much inferior to the Nitro helmets I had worn hitherto. Of course I cant comment on its protective qualtities, as luckily I didnt try them out. The same applies to my back protector, a cheap Boxquare one, which once I got its fit sorted out was comfortable and gave me confidence my back was better protected.

I minimised on the gear I took, relying on the hotels to provide toiletries and towels. I took several sets of underwear, and washed them overnight using travel wash. Sometimes I had to carry half dry washing in a polybag, and finish drying it the following night. I relied as much as possible on my credit card, but carried a reasonable quantity of Euros and some Sterling. I sometimes had to use cash for fuel in Italy, but otherwise the credit card was fine. I also carried a small notebook PC to log on to the internet, and download photos. I used the PC to carry copies of the workshop manual, parts list and all my travel bookings electronically. I backed these up on a memory stick. I also took a couple of magazines.

All my travel arrangements were made online. The mediterranean ferries, Kristels flights, the factory tour and the first four nights hotels were booked before I left home. I booked all the other hotels and the return tunnel en route.
 www.bookings.com to be very effective at finding good priced accomodation. I navigated using Michelin 1:1,000,000 maps, which I carried in a plastic bag between the windscreen and the instrument cluster. I was never lost, but did take two wrong turnings, and there was one village in Italy which I just couldnt find the right road out of! I eventually had to use a dog leg I could find, rather than risk not knowing where I was!

Finally the bike spares. I took the standard toolkit, augmented with some pliers, a 14mm combi spanner, an adjustable spanner and an electrical screwdriver with 12v test lamp built in. I also took gaffer tape, insulating tape, an assortment of wires and chocolate block connectors. I carried engine oil, chain lube, Scottoiler oil, and I bought some WD40 enroute. I also took spare plugs, a full set of fuses and bulbs, some fairing fastners and a spare key. Finally I took spare brake, clutch and gear levers, and a set of rear sets. I would liked to have taken the clip on bars (but not the clips), so I could have dealt with most likely drop damage. As it turmed out I needed none of this, but would take them all again!

I hope you found this interesting. I will post the stats from the trip shortly!
　
Statistics

Here are a few statistsics.

• I was away for 16 days. Two half days in England, four and a half days in France, six and a half in Italy, one at sea and three in Tunisia.
• In total I rode 3384 miles, and used 322 ltres of fuel.
• The average fuel consumption was 47.72 MPG. The best MPG rate I got was 55, and the worst 43.3.
• I used 3/4 litre of oil.
• I spent just under £300 on fuel.

I am afraid I have no idea how much it cost in total (and I probably dont want to!) However it was a great experience, and it was certainly worth the effort and cost of going!